On March 19, we interviewed Camino Green, an expert in holistic skin care, to learn more about hyaluronic acid. Camino is a biologist, PNI and has a master's degree in cosmetics and dermo-pharmacy.
Hyaluronic acid is a molecule that comes in different weights. High molecular weight hyaluronic acid provides an anti-inflammatory benefit and is able to retain moisture in the skin to provide plumpness. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is absorbed by the skin, provides hydration and maintains the collagen and elastin scaffold. Within low molecular weight, there is cross-linked and non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid. The one used in aesthetic medicine is the cross-linked one, which forms a mesh, filling and providing volume directly. In non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid, the molecules are separated and help the skin to be hydrated and radiant.
Hyaluronic acid in cosmetics
According to Camino, a product should ideally be formulated with hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights because this way it covers the entire spectrum.
In general, hyaluronic acid attracts the aqueous particles and ions needed by the cell to perform its vital functions. This provides structure and firmness. The lower the molecular weight of hyaluronic acid, the more it is able to penetrate into deep layers of the skin.
SUNSHINE is the lightweight moisturizer with hyaluronic acid and antioxidant oils, capable of providing hydration and nourishment without leaving an oily or sticky feeling on the skin. According to Camino, the most important thing for healthy skin is to moisturize and nourish.
Alpha hydroxy acids
We also took the opportunity to clarify with Camino the differences between hyaluronic acid and alpha hydroxy acids. Although both contain the word acid, they have nothing to do with each other. Hyaluronic acid provides hydration, moisturization and is anti-inflammatory. Alpha and beta hydroxy acids are related to chemical peeling. Among them we find glycolic, salicylic, malic, etc.
Camino explains that depending on the concentration in which they are found, these alpha and beta hydroxy acids will perform an exfoliating function and eliminate dead cells, providing luminosity to the skin.
However, Camino recommends that we seek the advice of a professional before using an alpha or beta hydroxy acid to assess the concentration that our skin can tolerate. Above all, she warns us about salicylic acid (BHA), which is liposoluble, capable of penetrating into the deepest layers of the skin because its action is very powerful. He explains that professional recommendation is essential in order not to cause redness, irritation or sensitivity in our skin, which could alter the hydrolipidic film.